Start by heating the oil in a large frying pan or ovenproof casserole dish over a low heat. Add the diced onion and cook gently for a couple of minutes. Stir occasionally and watch for the onion to turn soft and slightly translucent— you’re not looking for colour here, just softness and sweetness.

Add the mushrooms to the pan and give everything a good stir. Cook for another 2 minutes, until the mushrooms start to soften and release a little moisture. They should look glossy and slightly smaller than when you added them.

Tip in the carrots and swede, stir well to coat them in the onion and mushroom mixture, then increase the heat slightly. Cook for a minute or two — you’re just warming them through at this stage.

If using red wine, pour it in now. Let it bubble away for a few minutes until it has reduced by about half and smells rich rather than sharp. Add the diced beef, sprinkle over the flour, season generously with salt and pepper, and stir well until everything is coated and there are no dry patches of flour left.

Slowly pour in the beef stock, stirring as you go. Add the bay leaves and thyme sprigs, then give it one final stir. You should have a lovely thick, soupy stew with everything evenly distributed.

Pop a lid on the pan and transfer it to a preheated oven. Cook for 2 hours, letting the oven do the hard work.

After 1 hour, carefully remove the pan from the oven and give the stew a gentle stir. Check the liquid — it should still be saucy. If it looks a little thick, add a small splash of water or stock.

At 1 hour 45 minutes, give it another stir. At this point, the beef should be starting to look really tender and almost fall-apart soft.

To make the dumplings, mix the vegetable suet and self-raising flour in a bowl with a pinch of salt. Add a little cold water at a time, mixing gently, until the dough just comes together and isn’t sticky. With lightly floured hands, roll into 6 small balls and place them gently on top of the stew. Put the lid back on and return to the oven for 20 minutes.

When ready, the dumplings should be puffed up, light and fluffy, with the bottoms soaked in those lovely stew juices.

Follow the oven method up to the end of step 4, then transfer everything into your slow cooker.

Add the beef stock, bay leaves and thyme, then stir well so everything is evenly mixed.

Pop the lid on and cook for 4 hours on high or 6–8 hours on low.

About 20 minutes before serving, make the dumplings as described above and place them on top of the stew. Replace the lid and cook until the dumplings are light and fluffy.

Serve straight away, sprinkled with chopped parsley if you like. This stew is perfect on its own or with a side of greens such as savoy cabbage or steamed broccoli.